So I am on the train on my way to Napoli at the moment, and thought I would write an article in Word and then upload it later when I have internet access.
First, Venezia. On Friday, Lee Catherine and I hopped in a cab with Andrew, and headed out of Fiesole and into Florence. We checked Andrews bags at the train station, and wandered San Lorenzos market for some last minute items, such as a black pashmina for mom, cool leather purses for LC, her sister, and me, and gifts for Andrew’s girlfriend, Jamie. We had just enough time after that to say our good-byes with Andrew as he got on a train going South to Rome (going back to the US of A on Saturday), and we hopped on a train going North to Venice.
The train ride was uneventful. We sat with 2 people who LC thinks were together, but I don’t think so. They were quiet, refused to move, and stared the whole time. Quite nice, really. Also sad was that the seats were quite uncomfortable. It was only a bit over 3 hours though, and after that, all was right with the world.
As we exited the train station, it was just as I had remembered. The hustle and bustle of the Grand Canal, tourists everywhere, beautiful homes on the water, etc. I don’t think LC was disappointed either. Anyway, we got a 48 hour pass to ride the Vaparetto (like a ferry going stop to stop along the Grand Canal) whenever we wanted. They have a new system, where you get a card, and then you tap it every time you get on the boat. Last time I was there they did not have this system, and they didn’t have a 48 hour card, so it worked out nicely.
Getting to the hotel was an adventure because neither of us thought to get directions. So we had someone email them to us from Google, and it was ridiculously complicated. We managed though, and our location was perfect, right between San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. We dropped our stuff off, changed out of our travel clothes, and headed off to try to see if we could find the restaurant that I loved from my last visit to the city.
So off we went, traipsing around the city, from piazza to piazza. We made it to the Accademia, and up and over we went. At this point, I am pretty sure LC thought I had led her astray and that we would never get dinner. I am sure she became even more of this as I led her farther away from the main path. Then, however, it was there. Just like I remembered. Taverno San Trovaso. We walked in, and there were no tables available outside, but we sat right next to the door. LC ordered an insalata mista and gnocchi con Quattro formaggi, (salad and gnocchi with cheese)and I ordered my usual, pasta con aglio, olio, e pepperoncino (really good pasta). We also split a filet (our first red meat really of the trip), and had some wine. It was a fantastic meal, and much cheaper than we thought it would be. Bonus.
After dinner we headed over to San Marco to see it at night. We were greeted with musicians playing outside a restaurant and were immediately charmed. We wandered around, listening to other musical groups playing at other restaurants in Piazza San Marco, decided the first was the best, and went back to listen to a bit more before heading back to the hotel and to bed.
I suppose I should describe the hotel at this point. From the outside it is gorgeous, right smack in the middle of Venice. The lobby is beautiful, and even the hallways are nice. The rooms, however, are teeny tiny. Literally only big enough to fit two twin size beds right next to each other. The bathroom was nice though, and taking a shower there was much better than the shower at the Villa (oh Villa, I miss you already). In any case, all we really did there was sleep and shower, so it worked out quite nicely.
Back to the narrative. Saturday morning we went down to breakfast (its included!) and ate outside along the canal. It was a nice, non rushed meal once again. Afterwards, LC was super awesome (her edit, not mine, as I just passed her the computer to give our tickets to the train guy) and went to the gym, while I wandered around the streets of Venice for about an hour and a half, poking into shops and buying some postcards (which will probably arrive after I do, lol). We met up at San Marco at a pre-designated spot, and set off for the day.
First, we went to the Rialto Bridge. We stopped in one store I remembered from my last visit, and LC got a bookmark and I got a really cool sepia map of Venice. It is a copy of the first map of Venice ever made. We continued to pop in and out of shops, especially looking at masks, as we both decided we wanted at least a couple to use as wall art. We found one really good store and kept it in mind throughout the day. Our main goal was just to walk around and enjoy the city. We ended up around San Marco for lunch, and spoke with some lovely people from Canada who were finishing a cruise.
Our next plan was to hop on a Vaparetto and travel through the Grand Canal to really get a feel for the city. We sadly got on one going the wrong way, but I think it was actually better as we got to see outside the normal area of Venice, and then travel through the Grand Canal. It was a long but fun little journey.
We then made our way back to the hotel, stopping first at a cute little jewelry shop. LC got 3 necklaces, one of which is a lizard and way cool, as well as three pair of earrings. I bought one necklace and two pair of earrings. I will take pictures of them and post them at some point. Maybe when I am back in DC and unpacked in my new apartment, wherever that may be, I can take pictures of all of the fun stuff I bought. We shall see. Anyway, we went back t the mask store, and did each pick out three masks. I chose gold and blue ones, while LC chose gold and red. I think they are pretty, and I already took a picture of them, so that will be posted sometime soon (I hope).
Anyway, it was back to the hotel to change, then off to find an internet café (where my first post from Venice was from) and then off to find a restaurant on a canal. Unfortunately, we were unaware of how difficult it would be to find a restaurant on a canal. First we got completely lost while wandering, then all the restaurants on canals were more snack shops than actual restaurants. After wandering around for an hour (yes I really mean an hour), we somehow made it back to San Marco. How, Im still not sure, but we made it. We hopped on a Vaparetto, went to the Accademia, and made our way back towards our hotel, thinking to eat at one of the restaurants in a piazza somewhere instead of on a canal. Sadly, this was not to be. Unfortunately, they were all booked. We should have had the hotel make us a reservation somewhere, but neither of us thought about that. Oh well. At this point we were starving and considering eating at the Hard Rock Café. Instead, we continued past San Marco, and walked up to a nice looking restaurant just off the Grand Canal. This was a good choice. Not only did they hold our chairs for us, but they treated us like queens for the whole meal. While here, I suggested LC try a bellini, since at that point, we definitely deserved something after wandering forever. So we ordered one, and it was fabulous, as expected. The menu was a little pricy, but at that point we were so hungry, we didn’t care. So we ordered, and plowed through the bread provided while waiting for our meal. Surprise, surprise, a shrimp cocktail arrived for each of us. It was fabulous (I scrapped away the sauce ☺). Our meal came, and it was delicious as well. We did not order dessert, so they gave us a plate of cookies. The bill was not as expensive as it should have been, as they left off the wine we ordered with our meal. We figured it was providence and did not complain. All in all, if that’s the service I will get every time I get lost for an hour in a strange city, Ill gladly do it more often.
After that it was our plan to head over to Piazza San Marco and get a table at our favorite musicians bar/café. So we did. We ordered the drink of Venice, the Spritz. It was alright, a little bitter to my taste, but good none the less. We also got some chocolate cake. Yum. We ended up sitting there for an hour and 45 minutes just listening to the musicians and enjoying the music. In this particular group there was a violinist, pianist, upright bass player, and someone playing accordion. They played everything from Sinatra, to Dean Martin, to Phantom of the Opera to Here Comes the Bride, it was great. I recorded some of it and will try to post it.
After the concert we went back to the hotel and to bed.
The next morning we had breakfast, LC went for a run, and we checked out of the hotel. We then checked our bags at the train station while we wandered a bit more. We found the Jewish Ghetto, tucked away in a side canal, and I almost bought a mezuzah or two for the new apt, but I already have a couple in SD. We then had lunch at a restaurant on a canal (finally! A meal on a side canal!). I also picked up some sidewalk art that was pretty and cheap. After that we tried to change our train ticket to an earlier time, but when that failed, we decided to go to Harry’s Bar for a Bellini (since they created them we thought it was a fitting way to pass the time) and to plan some of our trip to the Almalfi Coast. After that we enjoyed our Vapparetto ride back up to the train station, playing tourist and taking pictures the whole way.
The train ride back was once again uneventful, just long. After that, we took the bus up to Fiesole for the last time and made it to the Villa. We unpacked our stuff, and then repacked most of it for the journey today.
This morning was sad, as it was my last time waking up to the birds singing outside my window. I doubt I will have that in DC. We lazed around a bit, finished some packing and laundry, and headed out to the train station with Olivia. We dropped her off at one station, and continued on to our own. Sadly, we had to carry our crap down and up a bunch of stairs at this train station, and now my hands hurt as my luggage is way too heavy. I am considering checking my backpack and carrying some other stuff on the plane with me in another bag. We shall see though.
Now we are on the train, and sitting in a compartment with 3 Italians. For the first 20 min, we attempted to converse with 2 of them. It worked pretty well, I am proud to say. Now we just have 3 and a half more hours til Napoli. Hopefully Dad can work his magic and we can get a hotel there. If not, we have a hotel in Sorrento. It will just be a pain with the bags to get there.
Our plan for the next couple days involves going to Capri, Positano, and Pompeii. Hopefully it will all work out and be a very relaxing time.
I think that is enough for right now, as this entry is ridiculously long. So until I write again, ciao!
Update: In a train station in Napoli. Dad's magic did not work, but we are happy with Sorrento, so everything is gravy (even though I dont like gravy, I think this is a saying that everything is good). Loe the free wireless at MickyD's :-)
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